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CITRUS PEST & DISEASE PREVENTION PROGRAM WARNS JAMUL RESIDENTS OF A DANGEROUS PEST LURKING IN BACKYARDS

Oct 292012
 

CITRUS PEST & DISEASE PREVENTION PROGRAM WARNS JAMUL RESIDENTS OF A DANGEROUS PEST LURKING IN BACKYARDS

Homeowners Asked to Search for the Asian Citrus Psyllid and Huanglongbing Disease

Growing fresh citrus is a pastime San Diegans have enjoyed for generations, but it’s now at risk due to the presence of an insect called the Asian citrus psyllid, which can carry a citrus bacterium being hailed as the worst plant disease in modern history.

After a surge in local discoveries of the dangerous insect, agriculture officials are sounding the alarm and asking homeowners to inspect for the pest and the plant disease it can carry, Huanglongbing (HLB), also known as citrus greening disease. While not harmful to human health, HLB is fatal to citrus trees. Once a tree is infected with the disease, there is no cure and the tree will eventually die. Prior to death, the tree will produce extremely bitter, hard and misshapen fruit. HLB is considered to be a death sentence for California citrus and it was discovered in a residential area of Los Angeles earlier this year.

The Asian citrus psyllid, which has spread throughout Southern California since 2008, can transmit the disease from tree to tree as it feeds, and the best way to control HLB is to suppress the population of the psyllid. Quarantines are in effect in San Diego, Orange, Imperial, Ventura, Santa Barbara, Riverside, San Bernardino and Los Angeles counties to protect against the spread of the pest. Homeowners in these areas play a crucial role in preventing the spread of the Asian citrus psyllid and HLB, and preserving the availability of fresh, locally grown citrus for Californians and the ability of homeowners to grow their own backyard citrus.

“Citrus is engrained in the culture of our state and it’s important that San Diego homeowners cooperate with agriculture officials as we all fight to protect our beloved citrus for future generations,” said Ted Batkin, participant in the Citrus Pest & Disease Prevention Program, who said trapping and treatment for the pest is occurring in San Diego County neighborhoods, including Borrego Springs, Alpine, Escondido, Jamul and El Cajon.

“There are many ways homeowners all over San Diego can help control the population of the Asian citrus psyllid, limit the spread of HLB, and overcome this threat to their backyard citrus.” The Citrus Pest & Disease Prevention Program offers the following tips:

·       Inspect your citrus trees for signs of the pest and disease each month or whenever watering, spraying, pruning or tending trees.

·       Do not bring any plant material into California from other states or countries and don’t move citrus plants out of quarantined areas, because they might be carrying psyllids or be infected with HLB.

·       Only buy citrus trees from reputable, licensed California nurseries.

·       Use only registered budwood with source documentation.

·       Dry or double bag plant clippings prior to disposal to avoid moving psyllids and HLB-infected plant materials.

·       Cooperate with agriculture officials on detection and suppression efforts of the Asian citrus psyllid and HLB.

·       Visit your local nursery or garden center to talk to a representative about products that can help protect your citrus.

For more information and to find out what to look for, visit www.CaliforniaCitrusThreat.org. If you think you have found a psyllid or if your tree has symptoms of HLB, act fast. Call the California Department of Food and Agriculture hotline at 800/491-1899.

The pest and the disease have already caused devastation in Asia, India, parts of the Middle East, and South and Central America. The pest and the disease have been found domestically in Texas, Louisiana, South Carolina, Georgia, Florida and California. In Florida, the psyllid and HLB are ravaging the citrus industry. The insect pest, in the absence of disease, is also found in Hawaii and Arizona.

Rattlesnakes: What to do if bitten by a rattlesnake

May 092012
 

Stay calm, get safely away from the snake and have someone call 9-1-1 (or the emergency number in your area).  The less the victum moves the bitten site, the less likely the venom will be profused and cause damage.

Have the victim lie down with the affected limb lower than the heart.  Keep the limb immobilized.  If practical, splint the limb.

Treat for shock and preserve body heat.

Remove any rings, bracelets, boots or other restricting items from the bitten extremity (it will swell.)

Apply a light constricting band about 2 inches above and below the bite, however never place the bands on either side of a joint (such as above and below the knee or elbow).  This band should be made of wide, soft material, which could be a handkerchief or shredded clothing.  The band should only be as tight as the band the nurse applies when giving a blood test.  Note: the purpose of constricting bands is to restrict lymphatic flow, not blood, so they should not be too tight.  Check pulses below the bands and readjust them as necessary when they tighten due to swelling.

Wash the bite with soap and water (if available).

If the victim has to walk out, sit calmly for 20-30 minutes to let the venom localize at the site, proceed calmly to the nearest source of help and try to avoid unnecessary exertion which will stimulate circulation of the poison,

Get the victim to definitive medical care for antivenom, which will provide the greatest relief from the toxic effects of the bite.

Actions to Avoid:

DO NOT cut the bite. The additional tissue damage may actually increase the diffusion of the toxins throughout the body.

DO NOT apply a turniquet.  Such action can result in the loss of the limb.

NEVER try to suck out the venom by mouth.  You can try the suction cup in a snakebite kit if it doesn’t delay other needed treatment.  Suctioning seldom provides any measurable advantages.

Do not apply cold and/or ice packs.  Recent studies indicate that application of cold or ice makes the injury much wors

Stay calm, get safely away from the snake and have someone call 9-1-1 (or the emergency number in your area).  The less the victum moves the bitten site, the less likely the venom will be profused and cause damage.

Have the victim lie down with the affected limb lower than the heart.  Keep the limb immobilized.  If practical, splint the limb.

Treat for shock and preserve body heat.

Remove any rings, bracelets, boots or other restricting items from the bitten extremity (it will swell.)

Apply a light constricting band about 2 inches above and below the bite, however never place the bands on either side of a joint (such as above and below the knee or elbow).  This band should be made of wide, soft material, which could be a handkerchief or shredded clothing.  The band should only be as tight as the band the nurse applies when giving a blood test.  Note: the purpose of constricting bands is to restrict lymphatic flow, not blood, so they should not be too tight.  Check pulses below the bands and readjust them as necessary when they tighten due to swelling.

Wash the bite with soap and water (if available).

If the victim has to walk out, sit calmly for 20-30 minutes to let the venom localize at the site, proceed calmly to the nearest source of help and try to avoid unnecessary exertion which will stimulate circulation of the poison,

Get the victim to definitive medical care for antivenom, which will provide the greatest relief from the toxic effects of the bite.

Actions to Avoid:

DO NOT cut the bite. The additional tissue damage may actually increase the diffusion of the toxins throughout the body.

DO NOT apply a turniquet.  Such action can result in the loss of the limb.

NEVER try to suck out the venom by mouth.  You can try the suction cup in a snakebite kit if it doesn’t delay other needed treatment.  Suctioning seldom provides any measurable advantages.

Do not apply cold and/or ice packs.  Recent studies indicate that application of cold or ice makes the injury much worse.

Rattlesnakes: What to Do to Deter Rattlesnakes

May 092012
 

Information provided by Project Wildlife

Add a low level rattlesnake proof fence around the backyard. While this is not a cheap option, it does work and can reassure you that a particular zone of your home is safe from rattlesnakes. In fact, you don’t need to even wall off the whole backyard – you can select an area for the children to play in, for pets to frolic in and for entertainment purposes and only fence off that part. This becomes the “safety zone”.

  •     Use a mesh that is not wider than a quarter of an inch in diameter or use solid material.  Any untextured material is best because snakes cannot climb smooth surfaces as they cannot bet a grip.
  •     Make the fence to a minimum height of three feet.
  •     Take care with corners, so as not to create a bellyhold (snake for “toehold”) on the fence.
  •     Bury the fence under the ground to a minimum of 3 inches under the ground.
  •     Be careful with any gates.  If you don’t join the fence to the walls of your house, it is important to ensure that any gate has no gaps on the sides and sits flush with the ground.  It can help to place a concrete slab directly under the gate going into the ground as a deterrent – this must sit flush with the base of the gate. This is a time when precision building is very important.
  •     Maintain the fence – all gaps, holes and dirt collapses must be with quickly to prevent possible entry points from weakening the fence.

Remove shrubs, overhanging vegetation and any other plants from the perimeter of the fence. Do not lean anything against the fence that a rattlesnake might be able to use as leverage to crawl over.

Check under and around the house.  Look for gaps, areas that a rattlesnake can access underneath the house and fill, plub or board off these areas.  Under the house is an ideal environment for a snake so take care to discourage this.   Check the walls, the foundation, the steps, etc..

Keep wood piles and any other materials stored in your backyard away from the home. If you already have piles, be careful when removing them.

Keep the rodents under control. Don’t provide a tasty food source. Get rid of mice, rats and other rodents feasting about your home and you will remove a major source of rattlesnake attractant. This is especially important around areas where animal food is stored on farms.

Keep other food sources out of the reach of snakes.  This means keeping pet food inside or covered. Garbage cans should be securely covered at all times.

Eliminate rattlesnake homes and nesting-sites. Potential homes for rattlesnakes should be removed from the area around your home. This includes such things as wood piles, rock piles, garbage piles, long grass, brush, undergrowth, piles of building materials etc. Think about the places that would be cozy for a snake to move into and remove them. But be careful when you remove them! There may already be a rattlesnake in residence.

 Keep lawns and fields around the house mowed. A short lawn or field is not a great place to hide and makes it very easy for you to spot a rattlesnake taking a shortcut. Be careful, however, not to provide sheltering places such as piles of timber or rocks that create safety stations for snakes crossing short grass, or you will not succeed in discouraging them.

Know your snakes! Some snakes can be good to have around as they deter rattlesnakes from hanging around through natural competition.  Of course, this depends on your own level of squeamishness about having any snakes at all in your backyard!  If you don’t mind the snakes, consider encouraging gopher snakes and kingsnakes.

Remain calm.  If you do discover a rattlesnake in your backyard, keep calm.  Send children, pets and scared adults indoors immediately.  Wait for the snake to leave.  Call for professional assistance if you are concerned that the rattlesnake may be settling in but if you have made your yard as unfavorable to a snake as possible, the snake will leave if given the chance.  There are strict laws on killing rattlesnakes in any other situation than an immediate threat and in your own self-defence – most rattlesnakes will only strike if acting in self-defense.  If you remain out of the way, there will be no strikes.

Rabbits

Mar 082012
 
rabbit1

What to do if you find:

Baby Rabbits:

If you come across a nest of bunnies in the wild and the mother is nowhere to be seen, please DO NOT disturb them. This is normal since the mother only returns to the babies to feed them at dawn and dusk, otherwise they are alone. By removing them from the nest you are greatly reducing their chances of survival.

Rabbits are independent animals, not orphans, if they are:

  • More than four inches long
  • Have full fur, open eyes, and erect ears (size of tennis ball when crouching)

Rabbit nests are usually found in a shallow, fur lined depression in the grass. If you come upon furless young who are out of the nest, return them to the nest. Reform the nest if it has been destroyed, cover the young rabbits with loose grass, and then mark the nest with an X using sticks or natural colored twine or sprinkle flour around the nest area.

Female rabbits only feed their babies at dawn and dusk, so you are unlikely to see the mother return. If she returns, she will move the marker when she enters the nest. If the marker remains undisturbed and the baby rabbits’ abdomens appear sunken the next day, then the mother has not returned to feed them, and you should contact a rehabilitator. Young rabbits easily succumb to stress, so handle them only as a last resort.

  • Put the rabbit in a closed escape-proof container with a soft ravel-free cloth.
  • If the eyes are closed, it will require a small amount of heat. You may put the box half on and half off a heating pad set on low. Monitor it so it does not get too hot, the rabbit should feel warm, but not hot to the touch. Older rabbits will not require heat.
  • Cover the box with a towel, and put it in a quiet place away from children and pets.
  • Do not attempt to feed baby bunnies. They have very sensitive digestive systems and need special formula.

Adult Rabbits:

  • We often get calls for injured rabbits. Generally they have been hit by a car, cat caught or hawk caught. Many of these are successfully treated and released back into the wild.
  • If you find an injured rabbit, pick it up using a towel and contain it in a box with a soft cloth in a quiet place away from children or other animals. Rabbits are easily stressed and can die from stress easily.

Food & Water

Do not attempt to feed babies. Rabbits only eat every 12 hours, and it will not hurt the animal to wait until you get it to a licensed rehabber.

About Cottontails

(the most common species in San Diego)

  • Brownish gray in color, hind foot about a quarter of the body’s length, white cotton-like tail.
  • Found throughout southwestern North America; range extends as far south as central Mexico and as far west as the Pacific coast.
  • Mainly found in arid regions, but can also be found in grasslands and woodlands. When not feeding, heavy brush, brambles, or holes are needed to hide from predators.
  • Diet consists almost exclusively of grasses. Will eat the occasional fruit, nut, or vegetable when available.
  • Preyed upon by foxes, coyotes, badgers, bobcats, domestic dogs and cats, and raptors.
  • Rarely live over 3 years.
  • Breeding occurs between December and June. During this period, a female usually has 2-4 litters of 1-6 young each.
  • Nests, made by females, are usually holes about 20 cm deep lined with grass and fur.
  • Desert cottontails are more athletic than other species in their genus; they are able to climb trees and swim.
  • If environmental conditions are unfavorable, pregnant females can reabsorb some embryos before gestation is complete.

Co-existing with rabbits:

  • Rabbits are rarely considered a great nuisance but may get into gardens and eat flowers and vegetables.
  • Decorative rabbit-proof fencing is readily available at hardware stores.
  • Bitter-tasting plants, such as marigolds, placed around the perimeter of the garden, may deter rabbits and other small animals from entering.

Thank you to Project Wildlife for their information provided.

Project Wildlife Animals: Raccoons

Feb 012012
 

Courtesy of Project Wildlife – to find out more about Project Wildlife and the programs they offer, please visit http://http://www.projectwildlife.org

Project Wildlife Animals: Raccoons

What to do if you find:

We recommend that you do not attempt to rescue an injured or sick raccoon yourself.  Special precautions need to be taken when dealing with this type of wild animal.  They can carry rabies and baylisascaris worms, both of which are contagious to you, and distemper which can be transmitted to your pets. The best thing to do is to keep an eye on the animal until an experienced project wildlife volunteer, or animal control arrives at the scene.

If the animal is in immediate danger, proceed very cautiously. First put on heavy leather gloves to protect yourself in case the animal bites. Even a very small baby can and will bite. Please cage it in a kennel or pet carrier (or any ventilated secure container), and place it in a warm, dark place while seeking help.

Food & Water

Do not feed a raccoon. Feeding too quickly or inappropriately can cause illness and death.

About Raccoons

Raccoons (Procyon lotor) belong to the Procyonidae (those who came before dogs family. This highly intelligent mammal has a rounded head with short nose, small ears, and a sturdy body with minimum-length, thick, grayish brown fur. Raccoons are easily identified by (1) a distinctive pattern of alternating black and yellowish white rings around a large, bushy tail and (2) a unique narrow black face mask with two white patches above the eyes. They average 2 to 3 feet long (including the tail) and 12 inches high, weigh 8 to 22 pounds (heaviest in autumn), and live for 10 to 13 years. Females produce one litter a year, numbering from one to six kits and averaging four or five.

Over most of the U.S. and southern Canada, except in the western mountain ranges, raccoons are found in many different habitats, especially near streams, ponds, and marshes in mature wooded areas. Their range is expanding further north into Canada, because of habitat lost to agriculture and the apparent warming of northern weather. As humans have moved into raccoon habitat, this mammal has proven more adaptable than most. For nesting sites it prefers warm, dry, dark, easily protected areas. In the wild, it dens in tree hollows, hollow logs, or sometimes rocky caverns. In urban areas, raccoons may nest in drainpipes, basements, crawl spaces and house attics. Raccoon populations now are actually densest in suburban and urban areas.

Raccoons will eat whatever their environment provides. In the rural environment, they eat insects, nuts, worms, frogs, shellfish, fish, mammals, birds, eggs, grubs, snakes, and fruits. In agricultural areas, they may feed on corn crops, poultry and garden and orchard vegetables and fruits. In urban settings, an easily opened garbage can is hard for them to resist. They are nocturnal but are occasionally active in daytime.

They are fairly sociable and often den with other raccoons. In colder regions, raccoons may sleep for a good portion of the winter; in the summer, they find shady, cool places to rest. They are territorial with limited private ranges, approximately 1 mile in diameter. Often their territories overlap with those of other raccoons but boundary clashes are rare. When confronting each other, they often grunt threateningly but seldom fight.

The species scientific name, lotor, means the washer, because raccoons have been observed dunking their food in water before eating it. This behavior in captivity is thought to mimic behavior in the wild, where raccoons hunt in or near water and hold their catch submerged before eating it. In the wild, they do not wash all food before eating.

Raccoons have keen senses of smell and hearing. They are strong and agile, hence good tree and fence climbers. Each foot has five long and slender digits, which operate with remarkable dexterity. In the wild, they use their front feet for finding food in water, opening shellfish, and conveying food to the mouth. In adapting to human habitat, they often apply this dexterity to opening garbage cans and pet food storage containers.

Zoologists attribute the raccoons adaptability to transmission of culture, a mammalian trait this creature has developed to a high level. The young quickly pick up new skills from adults and then can make their own adjustments or adaptations to new circumstances.

The raccoons primary enemies are humans, dog packs, traps, and automobiles. Many would-be larger predators know better than to take on an adult raccoon, a tough fighter with razor-sharp teeth. If threatened, the raccoon will often try a counter threat, fluffing out its fur so that it appears larger and uttering a throaty growl or cry. Raccoons may appear bold but usually are not aggressive except during mating season or when defending their young. However, their strength, teeth, and claws equip them to defend themselves effectively.

Raccoons are so common that you need not look far for them, and as their natural habitat shrinks, they are increasingly found in urban areas. They are night creatures and will be shy in areas where they are hunted. Where people do not pursue them with rifles and dogs, they are curious animals. Their tracks are easily identifiable, looking much like a human hand print.

Co-existing with Raccoons:

  • Raccoons are curious animals and are commonly found around human habitats. To keep them out of your home:
  • Secure trash can lids so that raccoons cannot get into them; keep trash cans in a shed or garage.
  • Eliminate access to food in your yard—place pet food inside, secure pet doors at night, pick up fallen fruit around the garden, restrict the use of birdseed.
  • If a raccoon is digging in the yard, sprinkle cayenne pepper to discourage grub-hunting.
  • Trim branches that provide access to the house.
  • Bright lights, loud sounds, and ammonia-soaked rags may act as deterrents.
  • If you suspect that a raccoon is in your attic, under your porch, etc., you may need to contact a professional wildlife extractor. Raccoons may have their babies inside your home and you will need special equipment and skills to ensure all babies are safely removed before closing up an entrance or removing the mother from the property.

Nuisance Raccoons:

If raccoons are causing havoc to your home by building their dens in your attic or under a building, we can help! Using the animal’s natural behaviors to our advantage, we can humanely evict the mother with her young in tow and install barriers to keep them from coming back. Visit our Wildlife Extraction Page to learn more.

How to Stop Wildlife from Moving In

Jan 202012
 

Raccoons, Skunks and Opossums – Oh My!
How to Stop Wildlife from Moving In
by Sarah Whorley, Project Wildlife Communications Manager

From the shores of La Jolla cove to the mountains of Julian, San Diego is a truly unique metropolis that encompasses a variety wildlife habitats. However, as our suburban neighborhoods continue to expand, wildlife encounters are becoming increasingly common. And if you’ve ever had your dog sprayed by a skunk, encountered a family of raccoons sifting through your trash, or been awoken by a foraging opossum outside your window, you know how frustrating it can be when wildlife and urban living collide. At Project Wildlife we strive to educate the community on how to live in harmony with our wild neighbors by providing humane solutions to resolve wildlife issues. By following some simple steps, you can prevent the most common “nuisance” wild animals (namely raccoons, skunks and opossums) from making their home in yours.

Preventing Unwanted Wildlife Situations
A majority of unwelcome domestic wildlife encounters can be avoided by making your home and yard less attractive to wildlife.

  • Trash and Debris:
    • For many wild creatures, our trash is their culinary treasure. Skunks, raccoons and opossums are natural foragers who take advantage of open or unsecured waste bins. Secure all garbage cans or keep them in a garage or shed until pick-up.
    • Brush/wood piles, clutter and other debris make perfect nesting and denning areas for wild creatures. Regularly clear debris piles and clutter from your yard and garage.
    • Pets:
      • Our pet’s food is another tempting food source for wildlife. Avoid feeding pets outside (or remove food dishes promptly if you do) and lock pet doors nightly.
      • Pet waste is another common pet-related cause of unwanted wildlife encounters. Clear your yard of pet waste on a daily basis.
      • Rats:
        • Rats are attracted by many of the same things as other wild creatures. However, as a food source for many wildlife species, a rodent infestation can draw even more hungry creatures to your home. Solve rodent problems as quickly as possible.
        • Secure openings around your home that rats and other wildlife may exploit to gain entrance to your residence.

Deterring Wildlife from Your Home
What should you do if a wildlife neighbor has already decided your home or yard the place to be? Use the following household items to deter wildlife from your residence.

  • Chili Powder:
    • Capsaicin is the active ingredient in chili powder that makes it taste “hot” and “spicy.” Capsaicin is a nontoxic irritant that affects all mammals and when used regularly will deter raccoons, skunks and opossums. Sprinkle chili powder anywhere wild animals are frequenting, including in and around trash, around the border of a garden or wherever animals are digging.
    • As capsaicin only affects mammals, it’s also safe to mix into birdseed to stop other animals from using it as a food source.
    • Ammonia (for outdoor use only):
      • Ammonia, a chemical found in urine, is offensive to skunks, raccoons, opossums and other “nuisance” creatures. Place ammonia soaked rags or spray ammonia directly onto areas that wildlife find attractive. For best results, reapply on a daily basis until the situation is resolved.

 

  • Fans, Radios and Balloons:
    • Strange sounds and moving items can frighten animals into avoiding your residence. Place an oscillating fan (you can attach strings to the outside for extra movement), a helium balloon or a portable radio in the problem area.

Wildlife Extraction
If you already have wildlife living inside your home the above methods may be ineffective (especially during springtime when animals seek out places to rear their young). However, Project Wildlife’s fee-based Wildlife Extraction service can help humanely remove wildlife from your residence and prevent reoccurrences.

For more information, call 619-692-WILD or visit www.wildlifeextraction.com

For More Information
For additional prevention and deterrent methods, including species-specific approaches to solving wildlife conflicts, visit our website at www.projectwildlife.org